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Smoke taint and wine.
The Hidden Impact of Wildfire
How Smoke Taint Alters Your Wine
In recent years, wildfires have become an increasing threat to vineyards around the world, particularly in regions like California, Australia, and parts of Europe. Along with the devastation caused by fires themselves, the lingering smoke can have a serious impact on the wine industry. One of the most significant issues is smoke taint, which can severely compromise the quality of wine.The 2024 Lake Fire in early July has had an impact on a few wineries due to their vineyard’s proximity to the fire. After extensive testing across various blocks, these award-winning winemakers have discovered high levels of smoke taint in some of their red grape varietals — leading to the unfortunate but necessary scrapping of some vintages.
What is smoke taint?
When wildfires sweep through wine country, the smoke they leave behind can seep into nearby vineyards. When grapes are exposed to the volatile phenols in smoke, these compounds are absorbed by the grape skins and can bind to sugars, forming glycosides. While these glycosides are often odorless and tasteless in the fruit itself, they can break down during fermentation processes that involve extended skin contact, releasing smoky, ashy, or burnt aromas and flavors into the wine.
Grapes are particularly vulnerable to smoke taint during their ripening phase, especially in the weeks leading up to harvest. Prolonged exposure to heavy smoke is more likely to result in detectable taint, but even short bursts of exposure can have a negative impact.
How does it affect the wine you drink?
The most noticeable effects of smoke taint are on the aroma and flavor profile of the wine. Smoke-tainted wines can exhibit unpleasant characteristics including:
- Aromas: Smoke, ashy, or burnt smells that overpower the natural fruit aromas of the wine.
- Flavors: An ashy, charred, or medicinal taste that masks the wine’s typical flavors.
- Mouthfeel: Smoke-tainted wines may also have a drying, astringent sensation on the palate.
- While a subtle smoky note is sometimes appreciated in wines that have been intentionally aged in toasted oak barrels, the off-putting flavors from smoke taint are considerably undesirable.
Not all wines from regions impacted by wildfires will be tainted. A lot depends on proximity of the smoke to the vineyard, how long the grapes were exposed, and the stage of ripeness the grapes were in. Our Santa Ynez valley winemakers are extremely savvy about detecting smoke exposure early on and deciding whether the grapes are still good to use.
What are winemakers doing about it?
The good news is, winemakers aren’t just sitting around while smoke taint takes over. They’re using science to test grapes before and during harvest, refining winemaking techniques, and experimenting with filtering methods. Research is still ongoing, but the wine world is determined to keep the smoky surprise out of your glass.
Santa Ynez valley winemakers won’t release wine they know is badly tainted. They take pride in their product, and they know you’re not looking for a smoke in a bottle.
Escape the taint
Smoke taint is an increasing challenge for the global wine industry, driven by the rising frequency of wildfires in key wine-growing regions. While there are no foolproof ways to prevent smoke taint, Santa Ynez valley winemakers are exploring a variety of techniques to mitigate its impact and produce exceptional wines.
For now, research and innovation in both viticulture and winemaking offer hope that the industry will continue to adapt and thrive despite these environmental challenges. As consumers, we can support wineries in affected regions by staying informed and appreciating the complexities of the wines produced, even when nature throws a curveball from Smokey Bear.